Anushruti Singh
Born into a world of gemstones, Rhea Poddar Loyalka’s fascination with gemology began at an early age, nurtured by her family’s deep-rooted passion for rare stones and intricate carvings. Now a gemologist and jewellery expert, she has carved a unique space in the industry, blending ancient Indian craftsmanship with modern innovation. In this exclusive conversation, she shares her journey from the Gemological Institute of America to redefining jewellery design, the challenges of being a woman in a traditionally male-dominated field, and how gemstones can be a powerful symbol of empowerment.
Edited excerpts:
Your journey with gemstones started at a young age. What is your earliest memory of falling in love with gemology?
I was born into a house filled with gemstones. My parents have been collectors for many years, and they started a gemstone carving company soon after I was born. I have very vivid memories of going to their exhibitions directly from school and spending all day surrounded by gemstone carvings, which were so intricate and beautiful. This made me develop a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship and effort that goes into creating a piece of art.
You pursued gemology education at the Gemological Institute of America. How did this global exposure shape your understanding of gemstones and craftsmanship?
The decision to study at the Gemological Institute of America was an easy one. Not only is it prestigious, but its international nature gave me a unique point of view regarding the gem industry. Studying there made me appreciate the scale and complexity of the industry that I wanted to be a part of. I learned to appreciate the effort and hard work that goes into presenting a piece of jewellery to a client, including, but not limited to a long and winding supply chain with many stakeholders. Getting to know more about the geological processes that created gemstones opened my eyes to the true beauty of nature. I returned from GIA with a renewed appreciation for our family brand, where we try to add value by infusing gemstones with ancient Indian craftsmanship.
Gemology is both an art and a science. What’s the most fascinating or surprising thing you’ve learned about gemstones that people often don’t realise?
That a small variation in the chemistry of a particular environment can change the entire colour of a gemstone – kind of like how a small change in DNA can be the difference that makes you, you and me, me. For example, the presence of chromium makes the mineral corundum red, creating rubies, and the presence of iron and titanium makes corundum blue, creating blue sapphires.
The jewellery industry is often seen as male-dominated. Have you faced any challenges as a woman entrepreneur in this space? How did you navigate them?
For me, the challenge is the intimidation that comes with not having too many people around you that look like you. It is difficult to be taken seriously while you are a young woman trying to navigate a complex industry. However, showing up makes all the difference. Once people know that you are focused and passionate, they welcome you with open arms. While intimidating in the beginning, the industry is extremely welcoming to anyone who shares its passion for gems and jewels.
As a female gemologist, how do you see women’s participation in this field?
While women’s participation is low, the newer generation of gemologists has a more equal ratio of men and women joining the industry, albeit in different parts of the chain. Consequently, the industry will also grow and change in interesting ways. It will be fascinating to see what the new generation of women brings to the industry.
Do you have a signature style or technique that defines your work? How do you balance tradition with modern innovation in gemstone craftsmanship?
I am very fascinated with unconventional combinations of colours that work together. India is a vibrant land of colour, and being a proud Indian, I like to bring that vibrancy to jewellery while adding a modern twist— by adding contemporary settings around the gemstones. Carvings made out of gemstones form a key element in my designs. I tend to use precious and semi-precious cut stones to enhance the colours and properties of the hand-carved gemstones, creating unique statement pieces of jewellery.
What’s one piece of advice you wish you had received when you first started your journey in the gemstone industry?
To not be intimidated, scared, and anxious to approach industry leaders because I have found that they are always happy to help.
How do you think gemstones can empower women, whether as an heirloom, a statement of success, or a source of confidence?
Gemstones have always been precious to women. We feel like our true selves when we look in the mirror with our best jewels on. I think that if we can wear it with confidence, we should create it with more confidence and sureness. Gemstones carry with them stories of their long journey of being created through time, and I think that they can remind women of the weight and consequence of their own stories, those that have been written and those that are yet to be written.
This Women’s Day, what message would you like to share with young women who dream of building a career in creative or niche industries like gemology?
Today’s world is one of specialisations, and I think that now more than ever, we have the chance to follow our dreams and pursue careers in niche and creative industries. Having been part of this industry for the past 4 years, I can say that it has been an extremely enriching experience. The journey will be uphill and downhill, but you can rest assured that the path will always be paved with a rainbow of colours.
