Threads of resilience: The Chikankari industry’s revival in Lucknow

The narrow, labyrinthine lanes of Chowk in Lucknow are a symphony of sights, sounds, and scents. The air is heavy with the aroma of kebabs, the rhythmic clang of metalworkers hammering intricate designs, and the gentle hum of sewing machines stitching delicate patterns. This is the heart of Lucknow’s Chikankari industry, where the centuries-old tradition of hand embroidery thrives, a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage and the enduring spirit of its artisans.

Chikankari, a style of white-on-white embroidery, is believed to be a legacy of the Persian nobles of the Mughal court. Its intricate floral patterns and delicate stitches, often referred to as “shadow work” for their subtle elegance, have adorned the garments of royalty and commoners alike for generations. Today, Chikankari is not just a craft; it’s a way of life for thousands of artisans in Lucknow and its surrounding villages, a thread that weaves together their history, identity, and livelihood.

A craft passed down through generations

In a small workshop tucked away in a corner of Chowk, Suman Pandey, a 50-year-old artisan, sits hunched over a wooden frame, her nimble fingers deftly guiding a needle through fabric. She has been practicing Chikankari since she was a child, learning the craft from her mother and grandmother.

“Chikankari is in my DNA. It’s not just a job; it’s a part of who I am,” she says with a smile.

Suman is one of the many women who form the backbone of the Chikankari industry. Their skilled hands bring to life the intricate designs that have made Lucknow’s Chikankari famous worldwide. But behind the beautiful embroidery lies a story of resilience, relentless struggle, and hope.

“This craft is a gift from our ancestors, a treasure we must safeguard. Every stitch is a connection to our past, a story whispered through the threads,” says Mohd. Owais, an artisan at the Lucknow Chikan Factory.

The pandemic’s impact and a glimmer of hope

The COVID-19 pandemic hit the Chikankari industry hard. Lockdowns and travel restrictions brought tourism to a standstill, drying up a major source of income for artisans and businesses. The lack of demand led to a sharp decline in orders, leaving many artisans without work and struggling to make ends meet.

“It was a very difficult time. We had no work, no income, and no idea how we were going to survive,” Suman recalls. Many artisans were forced to take up odd jobs or rely on government aid to feed their families. The pandemic also exposed the vulnerabilities of the artisans, who often work in the informal sector with limited access to social security and healthcare.

But even in the darkest of times, there was a glimmer of hope. The pandemic also led to a renewed appreciation for handmade crafts and a growing demand for authentic, sustainable products. As people spent more time at home, they turned to online platforms to discover and purchase unique items, including Chikankari garments.

Bilal, a salesman at the Lucknow Chikan Factory, saw this as an opportunity.

“The pandemic was a wake-up call for the industry. It made us realise that we couldn’t solely depend on traditional sales methods. We had to adapt and find new ways to reach our customers. That’s when we turned to online platforms and started selling our products directly to consumers. It was a challenging transition, but it ultimately helped us to survive the crisis,” he reminisces.

The road to recovery

As the world has slowly emerged from the pandemic, the Chikankari industry too is showing signs of recovery. Tourists are returning to Lucknow, and orders are picking up again. But the challenges are far from over. The industry is still grappling with issues like low wages, lack of access to credit, the need to adapt to changing consumer preferences, and the looming threat of machine-made imitations flooding the market.

“The road to recovery is paved with obstacles. The cost of raw materials has skyrocketed, and the threat of cheap, machine-made imitations looms large. But we are resilient. We are finding new ways to innovate and reach customers, and we are confident that Chikankari will continue to flourish,” says Bilal.

Threat from imitations

One of the biggest challenges facing the Chikankari industry is the competition from machine-made imitations. These imitations are often cheaper and faster to produce, making it difficult for hand-embroidered Chikankari to compete on price.

“The machine-made Chikan is a threat to our livelihoods,” says Nila, a 48-year-old artisan with over 30 years of experience in Chikankari embroidery. “It’s not just about the money; it’s about the soul of our craft. Each stitch we make is a labour of love. Machine-made Chikan can never replicate that. Sometimes it even takes us over a year to stitch a single kurti, but where’s the wages for it? We don’t get paid fairly for our craft and that’s a shame,” she adds.

To address this challenge, artisans and entrepreneurs are focusing on quality, authenticity, and storytelling. They are educating consumers about the value of handcrafted Chikankari and the stories behind each piece. They are also exploring new markets and channels, such as e-commerce and social media, to reach a wider audience.

“We need to tell our stories. We need to show the world the beauty and craftsmanship of Chikankari. We need to make people understand that when they buy a Chikankari garment, they are not just buying a piece of clothing; they are buying a piece of history, a piece of art,” Bilal emphasises.

Challenges galore and government help

“The Chikankari community faces challenges like low wages, lack of awareness about their craft’s worth, and exploitation. The new generation lacks the patience required for this craft, so motivating them and ensuring fair compensation is crucial,” says Dr. Poonam Bhagchandani, Associate Professor & Head, Department, Art and Design, Sharda University.

“Additionally, technical knowledge and social media awareness are important, and educational institutions can play a role here. Lastly, the long working hours can lead to health issues for artisans, so medical facilities and ergonomic research are needed,” she adds.

The government and various organisations are also playing a crucial role in supporting the industry. Initiatives like the One District One Product (ODOP) scheme and the Skill India Mission are providing artisans with training, financial assistance, and market access.

“The government’s support has been invaluable but we need more. We need better infrastructure, easier access to credit, and more opportunities to showcase our work on a global platform,” says Bilal.

Empowering women

One of the most positive developments in the Chikankari industry has been the increasing participation of women. Traditionally, Chikankari was a male-dominated craft, but in recent years, more and more women have taken it up. This shift is not just about economic empowerment; it’s also about social empowerment. Chikankari provides women with a sense of agency and independence, allowing them to contribute to their families’ incomes and make decisions about their own lives.

“Chikankari has given me the opportunity to create something of my own,” says Sonia Malik, a mother of two, who recently co-founded her Chikankari business with her husband, Lalit Malik. “It’s a beautiful craft that I’m passionate about, and I’m grateful for the platforms that allow me to share my work with the world.”

“There is a lot to be done in the field, there are a lot of gaps in the business that need to be filled. As we take this business forward, we’ll adapt and learn more about its intricacies. We want to experiment with combining western designs with traditional embroidery, something which is different and unique,” she adds.

Sonia’s story is not unique. Many women in Lucknow and the surrounding villages have found empowerment through Chikankari. They have formed cooperatives, organised workshops, and created their own brands. They are challenging traditional gender roles and proving that women can be successful entrepreneurs and artisans.

The resilience of these women artisans is evident in their ability to adapt and overcome challenges. During the pandemic, when orders dried up and livelihoods were threatened, many women turned to online platforms to sell their products. They also formed support groups and shared resources to help each other through the difficult times.

‘We are survivors’

“We are not just artisans; we are survivors. We have faced many challenges in our lives, but we have always found a way to overcome them. Chikankari is not just a craft; it’s a symbol of our strength and resilience,” Suman asserts.

The women of Chikankari are not just preserving a cultural legacy; they are shaping the future of the industry. They are bringing new ideas, new designs, and new energy to the craft.

The future of Chikankari: A tapestry of hope

The future of Chikankari is being woven with threads of hope, resilience, and innovation. It’s the story of artisans like Suman and Nila, who are keeping the tradition alive with their skilled hands and unwavering spirit. It’s the story of entrepreneurs like Bilal, who are finding new ways to reach customers and promote the craft. And it’s the story of educators like Dr. Bhagchandani, who are nurturing the next generation of Chikankari designers and ensuring that this beautiful craft continues to thrive for generations to come.

As the sun sets over Chowk, the rhythmic sound of needles continues to fill the air, a testament to the enduring power of human creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt and thrive in the face of adversity. The Chikankari industry, with its rich history and vibrant present, is poised for a bright future, where tradition and innovation intertwine to create a tapestry of hope for the artisans of Lucknow and the world.